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To use an emulsifying wax, weigh it into the oil phase, heat the oil and water phases separately to about 70 to 75°C (158 to 167°F), combine them with a stick blender, and stir as the mixture cools before adding heat-sensitive ingredients below 40°C. The amount depends on the wax and on how much oil the formula holds: most plant-derived emulsifying waxes are used at 3 to 8% of the total formula to carry an oil phase of roughly 15 to 30%. This page is the practical method, with ratios, temperatures, a 100 g lotion recipe and a troubleshooting table. For what emulsifying wax is and the types available, start with our emulsifying wax guide.
Emulsifier-to-oil ratios for six common emulsifiers
There is no single ratio for every wax. Each emulsifier has its own usage range and the size of oil phase it can hold. These figures come from the emulsifier comparison chart in Kari's formulation library.
| Emulsifier (INCI) | Usage rate | Process | Oil phase it supports | Add to | Emulsion type |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) | 3 to 5% | Hot | 15 to 25% | Oil phase | Oil-in-water |
| Vegetal (Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside) | 3 to 8% | Hot | 25% is a good starting point | Oil phase | Oil-in-water |
| Montanov 202 (Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside) | 3 to 5% | Hot | 5 to 30% | Water or oil phase | Oil-in-water |
| PolyAquol 2W (Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol) | 1 to 5% | Hot | 5 to 22% | Water or oil phase | Oil-in-water |
| Xyliance (Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glucosides, Cetearyl Alcohol) | 3.5 to 8% | Hot | 20 to 45% | Oil phase | Oil-in-water |
| Olivem 900 (Sorbitan Olivate) | 5 to 10% | Hot | 15 to 25% | Oil phase | Water-in-oil |
How to read it: pick your oil phase size first, then choose an emulsifier whose range covers it, and use the top of the emulsifier's usage range when your oil phase is at the top of its range. A rich cream with 30% oil needs a wax rated for 30%, such as Montanov 202 or Xyliance, not one topping out at 22%. For a deeper comparison of emulsifier families, see choosing emulsifiers for lotion making.
The hot-process method, step by step
All six emulsifiers above are hot-process, meaning the wax must be melted and both phases must be hot when they meet.
- Sanitize beakers, spatulas, stick blender and containers. Weigh everything in grams; volume measures are not accurate enough for emulsions.
- Weigh the water phase (water, glycerin, water-soluble ingredients that tolerate heat) into one heat-proof beaker.
- Weigh the oil phase (oils, butters, emulsifying wax) into a second beaker.
- Heat both in a water bath to 70 to 75°C (158 to 167°F), checked with a thermometer in each beaker. The wax must be fully melted, with no flakes.
- Combine by pouring one phase into the other while blending with a stick blender in short bursts for 1 to 2 minutes. Keep the blender head submerged to avoid whipping in air.
- Cool with stirring. Stir by hand or blend briefly every few minutes as it cools. The emulsion thickens noticeably between about 50 and 40°C.
- Cool-down phase below 40°C (104°F): add preservative, peptides, extracts and fragrance-free actives. Leucidal, for example, is added during cool-down, below 140°F, and works in products with a pH between 3 and 8.
- Check pH with strips or a meter once the lotion is at room temperature. Aim for about 5 to 5.5 for face and body lotion, and make sure it sits inside your preservative's working range.
- Fill and label with the date, then watch the batch for 24 to 48 hours before judging the final thickness. Many emulsions keep thickening for a day.
For the general principle of getting oil and water to mix, including cold-process options, read how to emulsify oil and water for perfect lotions.
Recipe: 100 g everyday face and body lotion
This uses Olivem 1000 at 5%, the top of its range, to carry a 20% oil phase.
| Phase | Ingredient (INCI) | % | Grams |
|---|---|---|---|
| A (water) | Distilled water (Aqua) | 68% | 68.0 g |
| A (water) | Glycerin | 3% | 3.0 g |
| B (oil) | Sunflower seed oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) | 10% | 10.0 g |
| B (oil) | Jojoba oil (Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil) | 6% | 6.0 g |
| B (oil) | Shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) | 4% | 4.0 g |
| B (oil) | Olivem 1000 (Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate) | 5% | 5.0 g |
| C (cool-down) | Leucidal Complete | 4% | 4.0 g |
Heat A and B separately to 70 to 75°C, pour A into B while blending for 1 to 2 minutes, stir while cooling, add C below 40°C, check pH, and fill. The oil phase (oils plus butter) is 20%, inside Olivem 1000's 15 to 25% range. Leucidal is used at 4%, the top of its 2 to 4% range. We have not challenge-tested this exact formula, so make small batches and use them within a few weeks.
If you would rather skip the heating step entirely, our ready-made Regenerating Facial Cream Lotion Base is already emulsified and preserved, so you can stir in boosters at room temperature. More bases are in the Bulk Bases collection.
Adding peptides to your lotion
Water-soluble peptides go in the cool-down phase, never into the hot water phase. At the manufacturers' highest recommended rates: Matrixyl 3000 at 8% (2.4 g per 30 g, or 72 drops per ounce) and Argireline at 10% (3.0 g per 30 g, or 90 drops per ounce). Reduce the water in phase A by the same number of grams so the formula still totals 100%.
Troubleshooting: split, thin or too thick
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Separates within hours (oil on top or water at bottom) | Phases not hot enough, wax not fully melted, or too little emulsifier for the oil phase | Reheat the whole batch to 70 to 75°C and re-blend. Next time, check both thermometers and move to the top of the emulsifier's range or reduce the oil phase. |
| Separates after days or weeks | Oil phase above the emulsifier's capacity, or too little blending | Choose an emulsifier rated for your oil load (see the table) and blend for the full 1 to 2 minutes. |
| Too thin, watery lotion | Low emulsifier rate, small oil phase, or judged too early | Wait 24 to 48 hours. If still thin, next batch raise the emulsifier within its range or add 1 to 2% of a thickening fatty alcohol or butter to the oil phase. |
| Too thick, sets like a balm | Emulsifier at the top of its range plus a lot of butter | Next batch, swap part of the butter for a liquid oil or use the middle of the emulsifier's range. |
| Grainy or waxy flecks | Wax not fully melted, or cooled without stirring | Hold the oil phase at temperature until completely clear; stir throughout cooling. |
| Foamy or airy texture | Blender head lifted out of the mixture | Keep the head submerged and tilt the beaker; let air bubbles rise before filling. |
| Thins after adding an active | Some actives or salts can upset an emulsion | Add actives below 40°C, one at a time, at their stated rates; test a small batch first. |
Storing emulsifying wax and finished lotions
- Store emulsifier pellets sealed, cool and dry. Hallstar's safety data sheet for its olive-derived Olivem 2090 emulsifier, for example, specifies storage in the original container between 5 and 35°C (supplier data).
- Store finished lotions out of direct sun. Any product with water needs a preservative; date every jar and discard it if the smell, color or texture changes.
Sensitive skin
Patch test a new lotion on the inner arm for 24 hours before using it widely. For sensitive skin, keep the formula short, fragrance-free, and start any added booster at the lowest recommended rate of its range before working up. Olivem 2090's safety data sheet reports human repeated insult patch testing as non-irritating with low sensitizing potential (supplier data), one example of the documentation worth asking an emulsifier supplier for.
Frequently asked questions
How much emulsifying wax do I need per ounce of oil?
Work in percentages of the whole formula rather than per ounce of oil. Most plant-derived waxes are used at 3 to 8% of the total to hold an oil phase of about 15 to 30%. Check the specific wax's range in the table above.
Can I make lotion without heating?
Not with the hot-process waxes on this page. They must melt and meet the water phase hot. Cold-process emulsifiers exist, or you can start from a pre-made lotion base.
Why did my lotion separate?
The usual reasons are phases below 70°C, wax not fully melted, too much oil for the emulsifier, or too little blending. Reheat and re-blend to rescue it.
Do I add the wax to the oil or the water?
Most go in the oil phase. Montanov 202 and PolyAquol 2W can go in either phase, according to the comparison chart.
When do I add the preservative?
In the cool-down phase, below 40°C. Leucidal is added at 2 to 4% during cool-down and works between pH 3 and 8.
Ready for a full project? Follow our step-by-step guide on how to make body lotion.
Sources
- Emulsifier comparison chart, formulation workbook (usage rates, process, oil phase range and emulsion type for PolyAquol 2W, Xyliance, Olivem 900, Olivem 1000, Vegetal and Montanov 202).
- Hallstar Italia, Olivem 2090 safety data sheet, 2020 (supplier data): storage 5 to 35°C, HRIPT non-irritating, readily biodegradable (OECD 310).
- Skin Perfection, Leucidal preservative Q&A document (2 to 4%, cool-down addition below 140°F, pH 3 to 8).
These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. These products are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, or prevent any disease.
About the Author
Written by Kari Thomas, cosmetic formulator and founder of Skin Perfection.